Saturday, 30 March 2019

Wave Rock to Margaret River

15 March 2019 - 

When last we were talking we had just left Wave Rock and had left you up in the air as to where we were going. Well today is the big reveal - it's Porongurup north of Albany. 

The "up" in the West Australian town names originated in a dialect of Noongar, an Indigenous Australian language, in which "-up" means "place of". So Porongurup is the place where porongur's are found. Porongur's are spirits .... like whiskey, rum and to a lesser extent wine. So that must be why there are a lot of wineries in the area. Anyway, here we are currently having a porongur late in the afternoon under the awning watching the sun go down.

The drive south from Hyden (Wave Rock) passed through miles and miles of harvested wheat fields. Huge grain silos dotted the roadside every 20 kilometres or so. We intentionally took a side track to Buckley's Breakaway which should be renamed Flyup. Similar to the breakaways east of Coober Pedy a smaller, but just as beautiful, an outcrop of eroded white, orange and pink rock called laterite pops out of the landscape. Walking through the breakaways was in no way enhanced by the sticky swarms of flies that lurk in the little valley. It is not often Julie swears but I have to say that those flies copped an earful.
Buckley's Breakaway




The rest of today's three hour drive south took us through more wheat fields and over a pass through the Stirling Ranges and onto the next mountain range of the Porongurups. We settled into a lovely van park opposite the National Park where we will stay for three nights while we explore the area and possibly sample some of the local porongur's.




16 March - today's target is the Devil's Slide and Marmabup Rock hike that starts just a couple of kilometres up the road. We started the walk with a side visit to Tree in a Rock which looked exactly like a tree in a rock.
What then seemed like an easily achievable hike ended up being pretty grueling one. At only 5.3 kilometres long it was the 307 metre very steep uneven climb over granite rock that had us puffing and stopping more regularly than we usually do. We were rewarded at the summit with wonderful views to Albany to the south and the Stirling Ranges in the north. 
The easy part of the walk through Jarra forest



Part of the climb up (the Devil's Slide)

The walk up

The summit (Marmabup Rock)

The afternoon was filled with a Scenic Drive through the Porongurups where numerous vineyards tried to tempt us in. We abstained and returned home to recover from our morning hike.
Stirling Range lookout 

Sunday - our second full day in the area saw us drive 30 minutes south to the coastal town of Albany. We had finally run dry one of our gas bottles so we went to BCF to have it filled - it was closed. We needed some food - Woolworths was closed. We wanted something at Harvey Norman - it was closed. So guess what, my wallet stayed closed.  

The coast in this region is filled with great places to visit. First ones for us were The Gap and Natural Bridge. The paths and lookouts have been significantly upgraded since we were here last in 2013 and the two natural attractions are still worth a visit.
The Gap


Incredibly expensive platform at The Gap

Natural Bridge
Next it was off to the Blowholes that expel huge volumes of air from waves entering a chamber under the rock cliffs 50 metres below. The Blowholes were working reasonably well given the swell wasn't that big. Visits to the Salmon Holes and the Whaling Station largely rounded off a good day, even though everything shopping related was closed.
The Blowholes (note the whisp of spray)

Heading home we passed a couple of ambulances speeding towards the hospital in Albany. Next we came across an ambulance stopped in the middle of the road, lights flashing with no one in the passenger or driver's seats. Further on we were stopped by a police car fully across the road and told to find another way home as the road ahead was ... you guessed it ... closed. Because the local paper and TV station were closed because it was Sunday we never did find out what was going on.

Next day was Monday yeah! The shops in Albany will be open so we can do all that we wanted to yesterday before heading further west towards Denmark, only this time with caravan on the back! First stop BCF as Harvey Norman doesn't open until 9am. Arrive BCF. They are open. Great. Take gas bottle in. Can't fill it until 9am as we have to wait for a second Team Member to be around. Sit in car in drizzly rain. 9am go back into BCF - well not exactly 9am will there be a second Team Member around - more like 9am ish. Finally gas bottle filled. Fuel up down the road with access via steep backstreets. Over to Harvey's place then to Woolies and voila we're off to Denmark - too easy.

In the hills behind Denmark is a quirky van park where all sites are ensuited. Seemed like something a little different and it was. Our own private shower and toilet collocated with our campsite was a pleasant novelty. The lady owner is just as quirky. In no time at all, over sunset drinks, we had discussed in detail the birth of her two children, the breast reduction she had just last week, her upcoming hemorrhoid operation and just how spectacular they were, how hopeless her husband was and the ins and outs of running a caravan park.

Next day was lovely so we headed to Greens Beach which doubles as Denmark's early morning swimming pool for the locals.
Greens Pool


Reminiscent of Bay of Fires in Tasmania

Having a pleasant walk
A pleasant walk along the beach with some of the locals who don't swim was followed by a visit to Elephant Rocks and Madfish Bay.
Swimming with the elephants

Selfie with the elephants

Walking between the elephants
Another dirt track led us to a Lions Lookout overlooking the pristine white sandy Ocean Beach.
Lions Lookout - Denmark
Back home for a night without any further discussion of the van park's owners intimate body parts and how they might be cut off in the coming weeks.


20 March 2019 - Moving Day.  The weather was showery as we travelled from Denmark west towards Manjimup and to a very pretty van park called Fontys Pool.

On the way we followed a dirt road through the now everpresent 80+ metre high Karri and Marri trees to a boardwalk in the forest taking us to Snake Gully lookout.
Snake Gully Lookout

Snake Gully Lookout and the Karri trees
Arriving at Fontys Pool we jagged a site right up the back in the corner. The site backed onto a farmer's paddock with sheep and alpacas in it. In a first for this whole trip, we were allowed our own campfire in the pits provided by the van park. So with three days to fill we sat back and did nothing on the afternoon we arrived and stared into the fire pit that had nothing in it because we had no wood. For $10 the owners deliver a milk crate of good wood to your site. I decided to collect some on our travels tomorrow as there is wood everywhere just on the side of the road.

Diamond Tree

Next day arrived and with it an overcast sky and mizzle that hung around all day. Not deterred we headed out to see the sights. First up, the Diamond Tree, one of many fire lookout trees in the region. This one is 49 metres to the top via a spiral ladder made from rio hammered into the trunk of the tree all made safe by flimsy wire fencing tied loosely to the pegs. Unfortunately it was raining so once again we couldn't climb it - what a shame!

With our first fire tower tree out the way Moons Crossing was next on our list. Travelling via an ever narrowing 4WD track into an unknown wilderness forest we were starting to wonder why Moons Crossing? To this day I still haven't an answer other than to at least get some 4WDing under our belt and what better place than a remote Karri forest in south west WA that no one had travelled along in recent months.
Road to Moons Crossing
With two GPS's no longer following the road and with Julie no longer talking to me and with banjo music coming out of the forest from somewhere we eventually arrived at Moons Crossing. A pretty little campground covered in thick leaf litter located beside a creek and the crossing greeted us. The conversation about the scariest movie I have ever seen, Wrong Turn, did not go over well at the time. 
The crossing was dry, albeit a little rough, was followed by a very steep climb the other side to take us up and out of the deep valley.
Moons Crossing campground

Moons Crossing

Next it was off to Brockman's sawpits where 150 years ago this pioneer family settled in the area and started cutting through three metre thick karri trunks with their axes. After felling the trees they then cut the 85 metre logs into shorter lengths with their axes to then dig a pit where the shorter log was rolled over it where one lucky person got to lay below in the mud and saw the log into planks for their house. Oh, and also the one sawing from below worked with a hessian bag over their head to keep the sawdust off their face. 




Next it was off to the Cascades near the timber town of Pemberton. A short walk around the area led us to the old timber rail line and, by sheer luck, the old timber train came along and disgorged a whole load of tourists for us to share the Cascades with. After 10 minutes the train whistle summoned passengers to come get back on board so we then had the place to ourselves.


Not much cascading
Julie thwarted at bottom of Gloucester Tree

Next it was off to the Gloucester Tree, another tree with metal rods hammered into its trunk to provide a terrifying climb to its 58 metre high viewing platform at the top. This tree is the second highest fire-lookout tree in the world so we were keen to climb it. The drizzle had stopped so it was okay for us to climb. Unfortunately I accidentally spilled some water on the bottom rung while having a sip of water and the Ranger closed down the climb until later due to the obvious safety risk. So once again we were thwarted.

With disappointment still in our hearts we headed to the Four Aces - four 100 year old Karri trees growing in a straight line and evenly spaced. The trees are believed to have grown from seeds lying in a rotting old fallen tree causing them to grow in a straight line. A walk around the local forest here was below average but provided some exercise for the energy we hadn't been able to expend at the Gloucester Tree. 
The Four Aces

A dead tree


Down the road is One Tree Bridge - a bridge made from one tree. A new swing bridge, not made from any trees, spans the creek the One Tree Bridge once spanned. The new bridge is designed to hide the sign that takes you to the One Tree Bridge located over the road but on the same side of the creek where you park your car. If the sign was not hidden no one would use the new bridge because it is not needed to see the One Tree Bridge. So we were sucked in by all this as we crossed the new bridge to the other side only to look around to see the One Tree Bridge behind us. When you finally get to it you find that the old one tree bridge is deteriorating as it is not maintained at all.
No Tree Bridge

The right way to One Tree Bridge
One Tree Bridge
So that was the end of today's enjoyment. It had stopped drizzling so I collected some firewood and we headed home. The only available firepit was in a previously empty campsite opposite us but two young female French backpackers had arrived during the day and they sort of owned it now. So I sheepishly wandered over and using my best high school french I said "G'day, are you using the firepit?" One replied in broken English "You're not Brad Pitt". We then discussed things a little more and they realised I was after the fire pit and they said I could have it. I then then muscled up and tried to pick the thing up only to realise a forklift was needed as the thing was made out of inch steel. One of the French girls offered to help me carry it to our site on the proviso I stopped talking French.  

In a very short time the fire was lit and the smoke started to fill our eyes and lungs. So there we sat with our first fire of the trip at Fontys Pool. Julie enjoyed the fire and the associated wine as much as I did. After a while Julie decided to invite the French girls over to the fire, they had plans for the evening but said they would come over the next day. Next, Julie was off talking to everyone in the park and convinced one fellow to give us all his unused wood the next day as they were leaving - and he did.
Looking down at Salmon Beach near Windy Harbour

We woke the next morning to the sound of drizzle drizzling from the sky. The fellow delivered his unused wood as instructed by Julie the previously night. We decided to follow through with our plans to visit Windy Harbour south of us on the coast even though the weather was pretty foul. On the way the drizzle gave way to rain and strong wind and then to our surprise the rain stopped just five kilometres from Windy Harbour but the wind continued. 

Our car is the white one

Windswept Salmon Beach



The wild Great Southern Ocean relentlessly pounds the coast here and the heavy weather it brings has shaped the desolate landscape for thousands of years. Trees grow horizontally and the little fishing village of Windy Harbour tucks itself under them to get out of the relentless wind. Limestone headlands erode away in jagged agony and wild windswept beaches stretch between them. Today a lone fisherman was on Salmon Beach trying his luck. We walked the beach and the headland. The main attraction is The Window, a jagged limestone jaw in the cliff where the wild ocean pounds far below. The place is so extreme it's wonderful. To leave brings relief from the harsh conditions.

The Window

Heading back north we re-entered the rain so we took the opportunity to visit the 75 metre high Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree hoping it was going to be too dangerous to climb.  We were in luck, it was raining and it was too dangerous to climb although we both tried - Julie got to the second rung and me the third.
Maybe I just went to the second rung
Still with the drizzle falling we visited Big Brook Dam and walked the well formed tracks under the tall trees. Finally it was time to return home but not before collecting some more wood to supplement the supply at home.

Big Brook Dam

Arriving home we found that the rain had stopped, the clouds cleared through the late afternoon and for a short time we had lovely sunshine until the sun set. Our fire was lit and dinner was had around its warm embrace. Just after dark the two French backpackers arrived back from meeting another girl looking to travel around the area and across the Nullabor with them. Around 10pm our wood ran out and at 10:30pm it was far too cold to stay out so, after a great night chatting with two lovely, intelligent French sisters we said goodnight. 

Next morning under sunny skies we left Fontys Pool and headed further west towards Margaret River. We took a back road route via Nannup to our next camp to avoid the traffic. Well that worked didn't it. The Margaret River to Nannup road pushbike race was on. So for 40 kilometres we had support vehicles, novice volunteer road biker warners and hundreds of red faced 'should-have-trained-more' riders coming at us. The winding, hilly, tree lined road made for a rather unexpected tense drive.
Our home for four nights, later extended to five nights, was Big Valley Campsite at Rosa Glen in the Margaret River region. The campground is a working sheep station with chooks, goats, guinea pigs, emus, kangaroos etc running around also.

Amy's parents-in-law, Kevin and Marilyn (K-M), are travelling Australia and by sheer chance were just 30 minutes north of us in Busselton, so we arranged to meet them the next day. They too decided to come to the same campground for three nights and were able to get the site beside us. On the way south from meeting up with K-M we explored the beaches west of Busselton, Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, Canal Rocks and a few cafes along the way for general sustenance.
Marilyn is so short


Canal Rocks
Arriving back at camp at 4:15pm we had to wait for a train of sheep crossing the road in front of as the owner had spread a roll of feed out for the them.
After a lot of catching up that night I then emptied some things out of our car so that we could all travel in one car to tour the region.
Part way through a lot of catching up with K-M
With fine weather and light winds we spent two full days with Kevin and Marilyn exploring nearly every nook and cranny along the coast right down to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in the south.















At Cape Freycinet we pulled into a carpark and walked down to the beach to watch huge 15+ foot waves pounding the beach just 50 metres offshore. To be able to get so close to such a spectacular show by nature had all four of us spellbound.

Our in-car resident food forager, Julie, spied an interesting cafe on the map, Cafe Boranup, and not wanting to waste any time getting there, directed us the shortest way which ended up being via a narrow, rocky 4WD track.
Anyway we all got through unscathed and had lunch. Next it was off to Hamelin Bay where Kevin watched in envy as a fisherman hauled in a large threadfin salmon and then he watched in horror as he threw it back! The last destination for the day was Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. Heading home we then spent a few hours discussing the highlights of the day.

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

Can you see Julie standing on the huge waterwheel?

I'm surprised no one has ever thought to do this.
26 March - today we all headed off to explore the central surfing beaches off Margaret River. The weather once again was stunning, sunny with light winds. Injidup Beach, Prevelly Beach and Gracetown all had headlands for us to stand on, fold our arms and say "how beautiful is this".  At Prevelly Beach we stayed for an hour or so to watch the world famous surf break being ridden by numerous surfers. For a while a pod of dolphins joined in riding the waves and jumping out of the water.
Beautiful surf break



Dolphin jumping out of water
A bloke on the beach in front of us spotted something in the water so he just walked in and hand caught a metre long shark which he later released.
Doing a bit of skateboarding like the old days
We returned home and spent the afternoon with K-M refining the design for a trailer he is thinking about building. 


Kevin and Marilyn left the next day to visit some friends for a few days while we decided to stay another night to spend the day in Busselton. Again the weather was perfect and, as Julie has long held the desire to walk the 1,841 metre long Busselton Jetty, we did.


The end of Busselton Jetty
We both held a relatively short held desire to have lunch at The Goose Cafe just near the jetty, which we also did. With every nook and cranny now explored in the Margaret River region to our satisfaction we headed home to get ready for moving day tomorrow.

For those of you still awake, it now seems an appropriate time to end this particular post - so I will.

All is well with us, the car and caravan.  The perfect beautiful weather we have had here has left positive lasting impression of this area of Australia.

Bye for now,

JeffnJulie
.... the Gray Gonads




4 comments:

  1. Some more stunning photos,such a shame the weather stopped you and Julie climbing those trees haha,we enjoyed the blog thanks

    ReplyDelete
  2. Another great blog with fantastic photography

    ReplyDelete
  3. Some more stunning photos,such a shame the weather stopped you and Julie climbing those trees haha,we enjoyed the blog thanks

    ReplyDelete
  4. hahaha.. stunning photo of the waves

    ReplyDelete

Alice Springs to Home

16 April – Our plan was to stay in Alice Springs for three nights. The reason being is that Julie was happy with two nights but I needed t...