Across the Nullabor to Wave Rock

9 March 2019 -

Today we set off across the Nullabor. The car and caravan have been checked over and the caravan water tanks are bulging at the seams as are the jerry cans with diesel. A slight tail wind is forecast which is good for fuel consumption and the temperatures are forecast to be reasonable maxing out around 30 degrees. Where we end up tonight we don't know but one thing for sure we will still be on the Nullabor.

From the Western Australian border through South Australia are pegs with the distance in kilometres marked from the border eg Peg 70 is 70 kilometres from the WA border. This is very useful for easily identifying where you are etc. In 2012, when we crossed from west to east, we camped at Peg 25 and travelled to Ceduna. Today we are travelling east to west leaving from Ceduna. We liked Peg 25 as it had wonderful views of the Great Southern Ocean and was a reasonable distance from the highway. So our thinking is that if a suitable camp spot is not found beforehand we'll aim for Peg 25 which still has good reviews on WikiCamps.

So with all that information, travel with us as we cross the Nullabor from Ceduna to Norseman - a mere 1202 kilometres. Please travel with us, it's so monotonous. Thank goodness for the occasional road sign that provides something to look at and those delightfully entertaining Pegs marking the distance to the border every kilometre. Morning tea was held at a delightfully dusty roadside stop right near ..... well nothing really.

See, told you there was nothing - morning tea stop

Next followed lunch near Yalata Aboriginal Community 200 kilometres from Ceduna. This stop had trees!

See, told you there were trees - lunch stop

The start of the Nullarbor Plain

Travelling at just 85 kph, to optimise fuel consumption, the miles just flew by as did the time. In no time at all we weren't very far. In the distance we saw something sticking up and to our delight it was a sign signifying the actual start of the Nullarbor Plain and this will be the last thing sticking up out of the ground for the foreseeable future. Every now and then the Main Roads Department has a sign showing the likely animal roadkill we can look forward to seeing.

Today's likely roadkill sign

The RFDS also have designated airstrips on the highway from time to time which provide great interest to the travelling public.

Where the RFDS land their Nullarbor planes.

With roadkill signs, airstrips and the never ending treeless plain to entertain us we sometimes miss a peg marker and until we come across the next one we have no idea where we are.

Missed a Peg marker so I don't know where this was taken.

In what seemed like days but in fact was around 2pm, we think, the famous Bunder Cliffs No 1 lookout comes into view. These cliffs are truly spectacular. Fortunately we had a nice day so the cliffs were able to put on a great show.

Our car and van on the left showing how huge the cliffs are

Getting back to what time we arrived at Bunder Cliffs is easy to explain. We left Ceduna in South Australian time and around Yalata we gained 45 minutes. Sometime after that, as we were closer to the WA border, but still somewhere around 100klm away we gained another 2 hours. This is all on top of the additional hour we gained in NSW for daylight saving and the 30 minutes in South Australia. So the next day when were in WA I checked the iPhone to find out the exact time in Perth only to discover they are just two hours behind Brisbane. Simples.

Next bit of excitement on our travels across the Nullarbor was Bunder Cliffs Lookout No 2 which was good but not as good as No 1.

Bunder Cliffs - Lookout No 2

Exhausted from so much sightseeing and clock adjustments we started looking for a campsite for the night. One thing the Nullarbor is not short of is good campsites. Almost every roadside stop has a track going out the back with numerous clearings which are great for camping. We tried a campsite around Peg 38 on the southern side of the highway. Off the back of a gravel pit a narrow track led to the top of Bunder Cliffs. Two large turnarounds right on the edge of the cliffs provide an absolute amazing campsite. The first turnaround was taken already by a couple in a caravan heading east so we gladly nabbed the second one about 300 metres away.

Setting up for the night is a complex exercise. Close enough to the cliffs (60-120 metres high - I think we were at 85 metres) to get a good view but not too close to get wet. Positioning the right way for the prevailing winds while balancing the need to gain privacy from the other campers and most importantly to make it impossible for anyone to camp beside you. On all accounts this was achieved. With the car and van heavily chocked so as to prevent any possibility of them rolling backward, out came the chairs, the beer, wine and high spirits and the cameras as we settled in for the afternoon. Because we had gained around 2 hours and 45 minutes today the afternoon didn't go away for hours and hours.

A walk along the cliff edge was just amazing. The heavy seas were battering the bottom of the giant cliffs and there was just enough cloud to make the sunset spectacular. The weather was cool and, because we had just lived a 26.75 hour long day, we soon fell asleep to the surf beating cliffs below us.

Julie walking the Bunder Cliffs

Sunrise the next morning was just as spectacular as the previous nights sunset. A slight overnight shower settled the dust and salt spray nicely all over the car and caravan. We went for a long early morning walk along the cliffs in no way in a hurry to leave this beautiful remote place.

After breaky we headed off early at around 7:15 am as we were still functioning on SA time which is really 12 noon Sri Lanka time. The day was fine but we had a headwind which plays havoc with the fuel consumption. We stopped in at Peg 25 just to compare it to what we had last night. We came across a lady fishing there who looked pretty stuffed. We much preferred Peg 38.

The quarantine border crossing into WA went smoothly. I asked the inspector what was the correct time and he said "Just look up the time in Sri Lanka and take off several hours. But don't forget to adjust your watch by an hour sometime around Easter as daylight savings finishes on Easter Island." With all our clocks now set we headed off.

15 kilometres down the road is Eucla with the first diesel fuel under $2.05 per litre in ages. At $1.85 it felt like a bargain. This is the third time I've been to Eucla and what an improvement. The place has been revamped with a nice looking motel and van park which gets good reviews on WikiCamps and great views to the Great Southern Ocean. A cafe provided a lovely barista coffee and good toasties for either an early lunch or late breakfast depending on what the time actually was. A quick visit to the old Eucla Telegraph Station and we were off again heading west.

Old Telegraph Station

The next sign we came to was the one at the start of the 90 mile (146.6 klm) straight stretch of road. Placing the steering wheel in the glovebox for a couple of hours we headed off to a destination unknown.

Today's roadkill identification sign

The destination, some 10 hours later, ended up being Fraser Range Station and campground, 100klm west of Norseman at the end of the Nullabor and where we had a pleasant experience camping in 2013. We could and should have pulled into the numerous bush camps before Fraser Range Station and spent a pleasant night in one of them. Fraser Range Station has now run out of a permanent water supply so they have cut off supply to all campsites. The thought of a nice hot shower was dashed so too was another tranquil night as we set up within 3 metres of the next caravan filled with people who thought their conversation was so interesting that everyone should hear it. Plus every bit of air escaping from their bloated bodies had various forms of vibration attached to them. You win some you, you lose some.

So for those heading east, Fraser Range Station is no longer a watering up stop. For those coming off the Nullarbor with empty water tanks it is no longer useful as an overnight stop. At $30 a night Fraser Range Station no longer represents good value. It will be interesting to see how it goes in the future.

Next morning under a light mizzle we set off towards Esperance not before saying a quick hello to a baby rescue camel in a pen at Fraser Range Station. The drive south was uneventful with a really nice morning stop under trees just north of Salmon Gums. This is where we should have camped last night - a really good clean bush camp well off the road. You win some you, you lose some.

Morning tea just north of Salmon Gums

Esperance foreshore walk

Esperance Seafront Van Park had a sea view site available and we nabbed it. Having stayed here before we like the park and the view out front over the harbour to the islands and Frenchmans Peak in the distance. We immediately did a full set up and after 30 minutes decided to book in for a third night as we love the site and views. To our dismay we heard that Cape Arid and half of Lucky Bay campgrounds are closed due to recent bushfires. We had planned to go to Cape Arid for a couple of nights and maybe a night in Cape le Grande NP on the way back. Now we will just do a day trip in to climb Frenchmans Peak again and have a look around Lucky Bay if we can.

Generally the weather, in particular the wind, was kind to us so when weren't out and about we could sit outside and enjoy the view. Our first full day was filled with the sights of the Great Ocean Drive along the coast east of Esperance. The waves were huge which added to the spectacular beach and headland scenery.

The afternoon was filled with chores including the compulsory supermarket shuffle. Julie wasn't content with her memorable birthday evening at Wilcannia so we had a belated birthday dinner in town at the very nice Loose Goose restaurant.

Day two in Esperance and it was time to re-climb Frenchmans Peak and visit Lucky Bay. The climb up Frenchmans Peak hadn't gotten any easier although Julie was more confident with the steep slopes this time. Although hazy the views from the top were spectacular.

The task ahead

Doing the task

Enjoying the view

The cave at the top

View from the top

The cave at the top of Frenchman's Peak

Next we headed to Lucky Bay and it still remains one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. It has certainly been discovered by tourists. National Parks has increased and improved the camping significantly. The campground was now fully opened after largely being closed this week due to fire risk.

Lucky Bay

Having satisfied ourselves with all the offerings of the Esperance region our next big decision, which is a regular problem for us, is "where to next?". After much investigation, discussion and negotiation we flipped a coin and it came down Wave Rock, near Hyden, about four and a bit hours drive north-west of us. So next morning after three sunny days we got up, had brekky and just as we started to pack up in came the rain. So after a somewhat wet pack up we set off north into sunny dry weather towards Wave Rock.

Lunch stop under a Salmon Gum - Holt Rock

We have heard varying recommendations about whether to, or not to, bother going to Wave Rock. We were glad we did. The attached Van Park fee includes the $12 entrance fee for those not staying in the park and the van park is excellent. Arriving after lunch we set up and could quickly dry the awning, matting etc from this morning's wet pack up. The weather was dry and hot as we set off the the main attraction just 300 metres away - Wave Rock. We walked along, over and around the striking rock for a couple of hours.

Even when we came back after 2 hours of exploring, the same group of Chinese ladies were still in the same spot at the bottom of the wave and still taking photographs with various scarfs and things while an exasperated tour guide tried to get them back into their waiting bus.

Wave Rock reservoir

Catchment tiles on top of Wave Rock

The top of Wave Rock forms a catchment surface for the town's water supply. 100's of metres of concrete tiles standing on their edge collect 45% of all water that falls on the granite rock and directs it into a dam. All very clever.

Part of our walk took us to Hippo's Yawn, another wind and rain carved inselberg that actually does look like a hippo's mouth.

Hippo's Yawn

So with a very satisfying day under our belt we sat back in the late afternoon and watched the sun set and the Asian tour guide cattle prodding her herd of clients into their waiting bus.

Sunset at Wave Rock

Next morning, after an early breakfast, we left the van in the campground and drove 15klm to The Humps where lies Mulka's Cave. Mulka's Cave has 452 Aboriginal hand stencils on its ceiling.

Cave entrance

Hand stencils

Inside Mulka's cave

After exploring the cave, which is about the size of a house, we headed off along a track to do the Kalari Track that winds its way over The Humps. Very informative information boards dot the trail which provide some substance to the spectacular views out over the the plains below. After all this excitement we headed back to camp and packed up to then head back south towards Albany.