3 March 2019
I start this post in Peterborough, South Australia, just past the quarantine point where all the fresh fruit and vegetables are taken off you to send back to Coles and Woolworths to sell to those people travelling west into the hot furnace like conditions in central NSW. Having experienced the fresh food recycling process before, we had nothing to declare. The inspector still insisted on having a look in the van. When I opened the door I had to ask Julie to stop hitting the caravan air conditioner with the axe so we could get to the fridge. All was good with the quarantine man who suggested hitting the air conditioner with a hammer on the outside. So we helped Julie up on to the roof and I sped off to find this shady camp in Peterborough where we stayed the night.
Next Day, being Sunday, but not because it was Sunday, the temperatures in the region were due to drop, even more so along the Eyre Peninsula, so that is where we are heading today - across Horrocks Pass and up to Port Augusta where it was 34 degrees at 10 am then down the east coast of the Eyre.
Our target was Cowell nearly half way down. While waiting for Julie to pay for fuel in Port Augusta I phoned the campground to discover it was booked out - what! Since leaving home we have often been the only people around and now a campground in the middle of nowhere is booked out!
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| Horrocks Pass overlooking Spencer Gulf |
So I tried a lovely sounding campsite on the water's edge at Tumby Bay further down the coast which is run by the local CWA. The obviously elderly lady said yes they have sites and we didn't need to book. "Just come on down, phone when you arrive, and I'll come and give you a key to the 'ensuite' type ablutions" Sounds good I thought so off we sailed. The temperature reading on the car dashboard just refused to go down as we travelled south towards Tumby Bay. It remained at 34 degrees. Julie's face was grim. Then in literally 20 minutes the temperature dropped to 24 degrees. Julie's face was happy.
Arriving at the CWA Van Park Tumby Bay was a disappointment to say the least. A small piece of tarmac covered in caravans parked at every angle other than the right one greeted us. Everyone who was responsible for the mess of vans was talking animatedly out front daring us to come in. We think they were having a good time but we weren't prepared to find out. Julie's face was grim. A call to the more upmarket van park in Tumby Bay was answered by a poor lady up to her eyeballs in people booking in who were also disappointed by the look of the CWA van park - "I'll call you back as soon as I can!" she said. Next option was a van park 10 klm north of Port Lincoln down the bottom of the Eyre Peninsula. Yes they had a site and yes we could book it. Julie's face wasn't going anywhere just yet.
So after 460klm of driving, the temperature at 22 degrees - a 12 degree drop - a cooling gale force breeze from the south-east and a well protected site we happily set up camp at North Shields 10 klm north of Port Lincoln and Julie's face became very happy once more - and it held. The hammer and axe have now been put away and we can start focusing on the delights of caravaning in a beautiful part of Australia.
None of the van park operators could understand why the crowds of people were around but I do think it has something to do with the heat over Adelaide and to the east into New South Wales.
We decided to book in for three nights to have a break from driving, to enjoy the pleasant weather, and to re-explore the region around Port Lincoln which we last did in 2013. Our first day here we walked the beach out front after breakfast and came back to camp for smoko.
I took advantage of the van parks delight in patrons washing their cars and vans as it helps to keep the grass and trees alive. Julie took advantage of being entertained by me washing the car and caravan.
Next it was off to a great fresh seafood cafe for some local King George whiting and scallops for lunch. With Julie's hankering for some fresh seafood unhankered we headed south towards the bottom of the peninsula to explore the rugged coast and the site of an early whaling station. The day was sunny and the coastline picturesque.
On the way home we did the Coles and Bunnings shuffle so we were all topped up with food and bits and pieces that you just have to have just in case. That afternoon we just relaxed around camp.
The cool day and overnight temperatures are just a delight. We were talking to our neighbour who travelled a couple of weeks ago through central NSW like we did and his car and two of his mates cars all boiled due to the high temperatures. Both his mates cars have serious damage. So we were fortunate to get across with only a badly beaten caravan air conditioner.
Today, 5 May, is another lovely day with some showers forecast for late afternoon. In the morning we did another walk along the coast, this time south towards Port LIncoln following the Investigator Trail along the coastal cliffs. The trail is named in honour of Matthew Flinders who explored the area in 1802. After morning tea we headed north to visit Lipson Cove, an important bird rookery if you're a bird, and to have a look at the campground - an important rookery for Grey Nomads.
Returning south we called into the pretty seaside village of Tumby Bay which has the CWA van park I talked about earlier. A walk out along the jetty was followed by a fantastic lunch at a little french cafe where I had the best combo pulled pork meal and eggs benedict ever. We returned home the long way through the grain town of Cummins and south to Port Lincoln.
This area of Australia is very livable, at least until winter sets in. Numerous seaside villages dot the coast, with great fishing, camping and stunning white beaches all supported by the very well appointed large town of Port Lincoln.
Tomorrow we head off north west towards Ceduna. The plan is to amble along the coast calling into the numerous bays and headlands that dot the rugged western coast of Eyre Peninsula. If we come across a good bush camp we'll set up for a night. If we don't then hopefully we can get into one of several van parks around Elliston or Venus Bay.
6 May - we set off around 9:30 am and travelled through Port Lincoln past the turnoff to Coffin Bay which by all accounts is packed and, based on the last time we were there, was not worth the effort and headed north at a leisurely pace. This part of the Eyre Peninsula is all about grain. Silos dot the landscape in front of vast treeless paddocks awaiting the upcoming winter rains to once again sprout forth a bounty of granular wealth for the farmers. In the meantime the quiet road is passage for us travellers hoping to avoid any early winter rains in the hope that the spectacular coastline remains clear for us to peer upon.
As if hoping to interrupt my brochure-like dialogue, a sign appeared pointing to Cummings Monument just ahead. We pulled in and walked the fretted cliffs overlooking the wild seas below. Leo Cummings, a young man, died here when his fishing boat was smashed against the rugged rocks below. Two others survived.
To the east a vast salt lake reflected the silver sunlight into our eyes. Just up the road an old stone house built in the 1850's by Mr Maurice was the Lake Hamilton Eating House for early travellers like us passing through this desolate area.
Today's travels ended in Elliston and its Waterloo Bay Van Park which is very nice. We jagged a great site and set up to enjoy lunch under the awning. After sorting everything we set off to the cliffs of the southern end of the harbour and spent a couple of hours following a well formed track along the cliffs into pretty bays and eroded headlands. A huge surf battered the rugged coastline below us.
Back at camp we spent the rest of the day planning the next few days and our upcoming journey across the Nullabor.
A week ago our overnight minimum was 22 degrees Today that was our maximum. Tonight the temperature will be 12 degrees - what a contrast in such a short period of time.
7 March - day two in Elliston started with a colder than forecast morning at 7 degrees. It soon warmed up enough for us to head north to the other side of Waterloo Bay for a walk/drive along the cliff tops where sculptures enjoy the wild weather off the Great Southern Ocean all year round. There was supposed to be a walking path along the cliffs but I think it may still be in the planning stages. After a fruitless search for any form of path we did the cliftops in the car. Again the surf was huge and it pounded the cliffs below us. The sculptures had see better days since we were last here in 2013 but they do add to the impressive coastal views.
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| A cruise ship leaving Port Lincoln |
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| Morning beach walk at North Shields |
Next it was off to a great fresh seafood cafe for some local King George whiting and scallops for lunch. With Julie's hankering for some fresh seafood unhankered we headed south towards the bottom of the peninsula to explore the rugged coast and the site of an early whaling station. The day was sunny and the coastline picturesque.
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| Whalers Way south of Port Lincoln |
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| Note the eyelash in the sky |
The cool day and overnight temperatures are just a delight. We were talking to our neighbour who travelled a couple of weeks ago through central NSW like we did and his car and two of his mates cars all boiled due to the high temperatures. Both his mates cars have serious damage. So we were fortunate to get across with only a badly beaten caravan air conditioner.
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| Just an interesting gate |
Today, 5 May, is another lovely day with some showers forecast for late afternoon. In the morning we did another walk along the coast, this time south towards Port LIncoln following the Investigator Trail along the coastal cliffs. The trail is named in honour of Matthew Flinders who explored the area in 1802. After morning tea we headed north to visit Lipson Cove, an important bird rookery if you're a bird, and to have a look at the campground - an important rookery for Grey Nomads.
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| Lipson Cove - bird rookery on island to the right. |
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| Tumby Bay jetty |
This area of Australia is very livable, at least until winter sets in. Numerous seaside villages dot the coast, with great fishing, camping and stunning white beaches all supported by the very well appointed large town of Port Lincoln.
Tomorrow we head off north west towards Ceduna. The plan is to amble along the coast calling into the numerous bays and headlands that dot the rugged western coast of Eyre Peninsula. If we come across a good bush camp we'll set up for a night. If we don't then hopefully we can get into one of several van parks around Elliston or Venus Bay.
6 May - we set off around 9:30 am and travelled through Port Lincoln past the turnoff to Coffin Bay which by all accounts is packed and, based on the last time we were there, was not worth the effort and headed north at a leisurely pace. This part of the Eyre Peninsula is all about grain. Silos dot the landscape in front of vast treeless paddocks awaiting the upcoming winter rains to once again sprout forth a bounty of granular wealth for the farmers. In the meantime the quiet road is passage for us travellers hoping to avoid any early winter rains in the hope that the spectacular coastline remains clear for us to peer upon.
As if hoping to interrupt my brochure-like dialogue, a sign appeared pointing to Cummings Monument just ahead. We pulled in and walked the fretted cliffs overlooking the wild seas below. Leo Cummings, a young man, died here when his fishing boat was smashed against the rugged rocks below. Two others survived.
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| The fretted cliffs of Cummings Monument |
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| Lake Hamilton Eating House circa 1850's |
Today's travels ended in Elliston and its Waterloo Bay Van Park which is very nice. We jagged a great site and set up to enjoy lunch under the awning. After sorting everything we set off to the cliffs of the southern end of the harbour and spent a couple of hours following a well formed track along the cliffs into pretty bays and eroded headlands. A huge surf battered the rugged coastline below us.
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| Julie walking towards Waterloo Bay, Elliston |
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| Found one of the missing 12 Apostles |
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| Caveman walking the cliffs of Elliston |
A week ago our overnight minimum was 22 degrees Today that was our maximum. Tonight the temperature will be 12 degrees - what a contrast in such a short period of time.
7 March - day two in Elliston started with a colder than forecast morning at 7 degrees. It soon warmed up enough for us to head north to the other side of Waterloo Bay for a walk/drive along the cliff tops where sculptures enjoy the wild weather off the Great Southern Ocean all year round. There was supposed to be a walking path along the cliffs but I think it may still be in the planning stages. After a fruitless search for any form of path we did the cliftops in the car. Again the surf was huge and it pounded the cliffs below us. The sculptures had see better days since we were last here in 2013 but they do add to the impressive coastal views.
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| Julie taking some drone footage |
After seeing all the sights along the coastal trail we retraced our steps back to Elliston, walked the jetty then headed back to camp.
Tomorrow we plan to sight see our way up to Ceduna for a night. If there are no changes in the forecast weather we are planning to head across the Nullarbor on Saturday.
8 March - and that is exactly what we did. With no time pressure we were packed up and set off around 9am. The road north along the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula is filled with dusty roads leading to picturesque villages and bays. A fisherman's delight.
One such turnoff led us to Talia Caves located right on the edge of spectacular cliffs which plummet into the sea below. Although cloudy the seas were smooth with a glorious rolling swell breaking into the numerous headlands and bays.
Talia Caves part of the coast is beautiful. We drove to the end of the dead end dirt road that ends at a dubious access road onto the pristine white beach disappearing to the south. Turning around we then firstly visited the Tub, a huge collapsed cave feeding through to the ocean via a narrow cave. Talia Cave is no longer a cave, in fact it no longer exists due the ravages of the ocean. Next was the Woolshed Cave, a cave the size of a woolshed. Out front were pink and yellow rocks and crystal clear swimming pools. Returning to the highway we headed further north to Venus Bay.
The village of Venus Bay is a fishermans paradise. If you don't have a tinny you're not welcome. At the end of the 'Main Street' a headland walk starts. It is here we parked and followed the sandy path to spectacular rocky headland. Often there is a large pod of dolphins here but today there was just a lonely seal watching us as we walked the track that took us to a number of pristine bays.
Driving out of Venus Bay a sign off to the right took us along a dirt track to a water soak and historic stone water trough. The water soak provided John Eyre with much needed water on his journey west in August 1839.
The day was slipping by and after lunch along an old road construction track we headed north to Ceduna. We set up camp around 3pm and started preparations for our trip across the Nullabor tomorrow. A fresh carton of beer and a couple of bottles of wine completed our preparations that also included washing, filling water tanks, checking the van and car, cleaning solar panels etc.
So it seems to be a good time to end this chapter of our trip. Since arriving on the Eyre Peninsula, with the weather a lot cooler, we have been able to just amble around looking at anything that might be interesting. The nights are cool and the days generally balmy. It looks like the weather across the Nullabor will be pretty favourable so we'll next chat after we travel the 1200 kilometres from Ceduna to Norseman.
Bye for now
JeffnJulie
The Grey Gonads.
9 March 2019
Tomorrow we plan to sight see our way up to Ceduna for a night. If there are no changes in the forecast weather we are planning to head across the Nullarbor on Saturday.
8 March - and that is exactly what we did. With no time pressure we were packed up and set off around 9am. The road north along the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula is filled with dusty roads leading to picturesque villages and bays. A fisherman's delight.
One such turnoff led us to Talia Caves located right on the edge of spectacular cliffs which plummet into the sea below. Although cloudy the seas were smooth with a glorious rolling swell breaking into the numerous headlands and bays.
Talia Caves part of the coast is beautiful. We drove to the end of the dead end dirt road that ends at a dubious access road onto the pristine white beach disappearing to the south. Turning around we then firstly visited the Tub, a huge collapsed cave feeding through to the ocean via a narrow cave. Talia Cave is no longer a cave, in fact it no longer exists due the ravages of the ocean. Next was the Woolshed Cave, a cave the size of a woolshed. Out front were pink and yellow rocks and crystal clear swimming pools. Returning to the highway we headed further north to Venus Bay.
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| The Tub |
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| Woolshed Cave |
The village of Venus Bay is a fishermans paradise. If you don't have a tinny you're not welcome. At the end of the 'Main Street' a headland walk starts. It is here we parked and followed the sandy path to spectacular rocky headland. Often there is a large pod of dolphins here but today there was just a lonely seal watching us as we walked the track that took us to a number of pristine bays.
 |
| Venus Bay headland walk |
Driving out of Venus Bay a sign off to the right took us along a dirt track to a water soak and historic stone water trough. The water soak provided John Eyre with much needed water on his journey west in August 1839.
The day was slipping by and after lunch along an old road construction track we headed north to Ceduna. We set up camp around 3pm and started preparations for our trip across the Nullabor tomorrow. A fresh carton of beer and a couple of bottles of wine completed our preparations that also included washing, filling water tanks, checking the van and car, cleaning solar panels etc.
So it seems to be a good time to end this chapter of our trip. Since arriving on the Eyre Peninsula, with the weather a lot cooler, we have been able to just amble around looking at anything that might be interesting. The nights are cool and the days generally balmy. It looks like the weather across the Nullabor will be pretty favourable so we'll next chat after we travel the 1200 kilometres from Ceduna to Norseman.
Bye for now
JeffnJulie
The Grey Gonads.
9 March 2019
Some great arty photos ... safe travels across the long road..
ReplyDeleteGreat photos Jeff I know by Carole's face she's smiling ,
ReplyDelete